Savor the Best in Authentic Mexican Cuisine at Mexicano

by Susan Montgomery

Most food writers hesitate to describe a restaurant with too many superlatives, but I am going to go out on a limb and say that the recently opened Mexicano in the Baldwin Hills Crenshaw Plaza in the heart of Los Angeles is among the best of Mexican restaurants I have ever visited. Perhaps it’s even the best.

There is no Americanized Mexican food here—no tired tacos, bland burritos or redundant refried beans. The food at Mexicano reflects the rich heritage of celebrated owners/chefs Ramiro Arvizu and Jamie Martin del Campo, whose La Casita Mexicana in Bell, California, has been a popular restaurant for many years.  In their new venture, this talented team continues to focus on offering authentic, inventive dishes to their customers. For many guests, myself included, Jamie and Ramiro are redefining what “eating Mexican” really means.

Almost everything Mexicano serves is made from scratch using the freshest possible ingredients. Most of the recipes originated in the chefs’ home state of Jalisco, known for its traditional but creative Mexican cuisine. Many of the restaurant’s dishes are recreations of the chefs’ favorite family dishes.  Mexicano's cheerful décor is warm yet stylish, and highlighted with vibrant Mexican artwork.

A group of hungry food writers recently tasted a range of the many authentic dishes and drinks available on the menu.  We started at the inviting bar where a colorful mural behind the bar depicts famous Mexican historical figures. It was hard to choose from the enticing list of cocktails, but I tried a Sereno, an original concoction with a pleasant zing made of Mezcal, ginger cordial, fresh lime, angostura bitters and soda.  I also sipped on an especially tasty margarita with fresh lime juice and high-end tequila. Dried crickets are an optional topping for many of the unique drinks on the cocktail menu. Crickets didn’t sound too appealing to me, but I cautiously tried one and it was surprisingly crunchy and flavorful.

The bar also features some tempting drinks based on the classic Mexican Raspado made with flavored shaved ice. The addition of alcohol and a variety of natural fruit flavors creates refreshing, delightful cocktails.  In addition, Mexicano offers a range of Mexican beers and also wines from some of Mexico’s outstanding wineries. I tried a deep, dark reserve Nebbiolo from L.A. Cetto in Baja with strong tastes of cherry that paired nicely with some of the restaurant’s more savory dishes.

After we moved from the bar to a table on the pleasant outdoor patio, a tantalizing array of dishes just kept coming. Our appetites were whetted with the chefs’ signature zesty, chunky guacamole, uniquely infused with tequila and served with crisp, house-made corn tortillas. I loved every bite of this unique version of traditional “guac,” but I had to control myself because I knew so much more good food was on the way. Next we tasted Queso Fundido, which was made with a variety of melted Mexican cheeses topped with house-made chorizo. These two dishes signaled that our palates were in for some real treats.

Other exceptional dishes that followed included:

Ceviche Nayarit: 

This delicious mixture of fish is combined with jalapeños, carrots, onions, tomato and cilantro. Fresh and tangy, this is an exceptional ceviche, a nice way to start a meal.

Shrimp al Mezcal:

Large shrimp are cooked with sweet orange juice, chile de árbol and agave, resulting in a spicy, savory dish.

Shrimp al Pastor:

Marinated shrimp are cooked in a creative combination of achiote paste (a popular blend of Mexican spices), chilies and pineapple. This dish was beautifully presented and tasted as good as it looked.

Chicken 7 Chiles:

Tender chicken breasts are smothered with a flavorful sauce made of seven different chilies, including three types of bell pepper, serrano, chilaca, jalapeño and habanero. The result is a piquant combination of wonderful flavors.

Tamales are made to order and steamed on a grill. We tried three tasty options with complex but delicate sauces:  Mole Poblano filled with chicken and topped with Mexicano’s signature mole; Green Mole filled with chicken and a special green mole; and the especially delectable Chicharron en Salsa Verde filled with pork rinds in a spicy green tomatillo sauce.

Just when we were leaning back in our chairs, sighing because we were so satisfyingly full, we were offered a variety of tempting desserts, including the luscious house flan with cotija, Oaxaca, and queso fresco cheeses; a sweet, creamy rice pudding called Arroz con Leche; and traditional Mexican churros filled with cajeta “dulce de leche.”

Mexicano is now our "go-to" Mexican restaurant in Los Angeles because of it has established such a high bar for delicious authenticity. Mexicano is located at 3650 West Martin Luther King Blvd, and is open daily at 11 a.m. for both lunch and dinner.  When would you like to meet us?

Photos by Todd Montgomery.

We were graciously hosted at Mexicano as members of the International Food Wine & Travel Writers Association, but all opinions expressed are completely our own. Our goal is always to provide accurate, interesting information to our readers.